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MATERIALS USED TO MAKE LURES

The materials that are used to make lures will vary, depending on the method undertaken, but we will try and give a broad overview of what materials will be needed in all methods.

Materials for the Body

A large majority of lures are made from timber, and feature the typical buoyancy and something special action associated with timber lures, and the thought of them being hand crafted, gives the impression that they are of better quality, whereas mass produced lures are moulded in different plastics. Some of the materials for lure bodies are listed below:

  • Jointed Pine 'D' Moulding (sizes 19mm and 31mm for about $1.20 per metre from hardware stores or timber suppliers.)

  • Oregon Timber

  • Cedar

  • Australian White Beech

  • Balsa Wood

  • Radiata Pine

  • Celery-Top Pine or Jellutong

  • Moulded Resins (fibreglass)

  • Moulded Polyethylene

  • Moulded ABS Plastics

Materials for the Bib

When the lures are hand crafted, which most are, then most of the bibs are put into position after the lures have been shaped. When they are moulded the bib becomes part of the moulding process. Some common bib materials can be seen below:

  • Sheet Aliminium

  • Durallium

  • Lexcen (clear plastic)

  • Polycarbonate (clear plastic)

Accessory Materials

  • Use soft stainless trace wire for eyelets, available from most tackle stores. Mono stainless steel seems to be the best. This comes in 139 pound (which is good for larger lures) and 70 pound, which is ideal for smaller lures.

  • Split Rings are attached to the eyelets and are needed to attach the trebles. These come in varying sizes, depending on the size of the lure being made. They range from 3mm in diameter to 9mm in diameter.

  • Towing clips on the bib, for line attachment. These come in different styles - snap clips or towing clips. Towing Clips need a split ring to hold them in a slot cut into the bib. Most bibs have this type of set-up.

  • Finishes - you will need to apply a primer or grey auto-undercoat spray before applying colours. The best finishes are the automotive touch-up spray cans. On a larger scale, buy the automotive paints in tins and use an air brush to apply them. Also a two part epoxy clear finish will make the lure much more attractive and durable.

  • Finally trebles need to be attached to the lure. Make sure that the trebles match the size of the lure and are in positions, that do not allow them to touch each other. HINT - when testing the swimming action of a new lure design, make sure it is fully fitted with all accessories, as this will give a true indication of swimming action, diving depth and buoyancy.

Other Accessories

The list below shows some of the tools, machines and other items that can further enhance your lure designs:

  • 24 hour Araldite - this is the strongest glue. Do not use the quicker drying brands, as it will not hold.

  • Screens for stencilling patterns onto lures. These can be mosquito netting, fishnet stockings (fish scales) or doily's. This part is up to your imagination.

  • Templates for lure shapes. Make sure that you have photocopies, as they should are cut out & glued temporarily to the lure material as guide for shaping.

  • Coping saw for cutting out lure and bib shapes.

  • Disc sander, or bench belt sander, sanding paper and a file.

  • Long Nose pliers and Split Ring pliers.

  • A high quality mask to filter unhealthy fumes when spraying finishes.

  • A drying rack to allow the lures to dry properly.

Are you ready to make your own lures? If yes then see making Timber Lures.