I will guarantee that the following method is the best and easiest anyone can find for small scale production. Most large lure manufacturers first start out making timber lures, then make plastic lures and then get them massed produced, using either, injection moulded polyurethane or die cast ABS plastics. This can be very expensive to set up. For the majority of us that want to get into lure making a cheaper way is to use the method described below, using the Lure Moulding Kit. You can make each lure for less than $2.00 each and also get into the lure making market, or instead of paying $10 - $20 per lure make your own supply. You will get more fish because you won't be frightened of losing one or two. Whatever the reason you are interested in making lures the methods described in this section are the most econimical and meaningful for the backyard lure makers. 

1. Moulding fishing lures, usually comes after you have developed a successful timber made lure. It is well designed and most of all it catches fish. Well it is probably time for you to create the same lures from moulded polyurethane. You will be able to make approximately 50 moulded lures in the time it would take to make 1 timber lure. The following procedure is being used by many small lure makers and some of the lures that you buy in the tackle stores are made with this method.

2. The lure that you choose should have a good swimming action and have an original shape and design and a smooth finish for a high quality mould. Because lets face it, lures need to catch fish as well as fisherman, so the quality of the end product is important. Use a wire burner on the lure blank to engrave your brand name into the lure before hand this will then be part of each lure moulded. The first half of the mould is made by setting half of your lure blank in modelling clay, create some key holes with the end of a paint brush or pen and a pouring sprue with the nozzle of a silicon tube.

3. Use a sharp knife to form the clay to a sharp edge against the lure. Remove all specks of clay. Trim the clay to form a nice rectangle shape and then form some modelling foam or timber around it. Hold it firmly in place with some rubber bands, to make sure the mould solution does not leak out. Each 1/2 of the mould should be about 5mm - 8mm above the lure blank. This will stop the mould from flexing as much when it is held together when pouring your lures.

4. Measure the inside volume of the box above the lure. These dimensions will give you the amount of rubber required to fill the box. Unless the lure is bulky, you can disregard the volume of the lure blank. Pour the first half of the mould following the simple instructions in the lure making kit. When it has cured, turn the lure mould over and remove the modelling clay. Now pour the other half of the mould.

5. After 24 hours and the rubber has cured, remove the clay with a knife very carefully. Do not disturb the lure which will be lightly held into the cured rubber. Save the clay in a plastic bag for the next mould that you make. Use a soft brush and water to remove all particles of clay and to clean the lure surface. I have moulded two shortened nails into the first half of the mould. This is to make sure later down the track that each of my wire inserts will be held in the same position each time a lure is made. Dry the exposed rubber and lure face with a tissue. Apply a thin layer of vaseline to the exposed faces of the cured rubber. This will prevent the second half of the rubber mould from sticking to the first. Then pure the second half of the mould.

6. After another 24 hours and the second half of the mould has cured, carefully remove the box and the last poured section of the rubber mould. This will give you access to the lure and it's buried wires. Remove your lure pattern carefully and if you can restrain yourself, allow the mould to fully cure for a couple of days. Trim all daggy pieces of rubber from the outside edges of the mould and open the pouring sprue with a scalpel or hobby knife. In the diagram you can clearly see the two nails that have been moulded into one half of the lure.

7. While the mould is curing you can get other accessories ready to make your lures. I make a simple jig for the wire inserts for each lure. I use the actual lure that I make the mould with and simply mark the nail positions to slip over the eyelets. There is also another nail used to bend the wire to fit through a slot in the bib, as you will see later. Make sure that the nail heads have been cut off, so that you can easily slip the wire off after shaping. The stainless wire is 0.8 or 0.9 gauge stainless mig wire and this can be re-stocked at steel or hardware businesses. You can buy a 1kg roll for about $36.00. Also another good idea while the mould is curing, is to get all 1.5mm polycarbonate or lexan bibs cut to shape, as they are moulded with the lure. They should be copied exactly from the original lure blank, but make sure you allow for the bib to go into the lure for at least 15mm - 20mm and drill a 6mm x 10mm slot for the wire inserts to slip through and the plastic to lock into. If you want to become really efficient in making your lures in the future, you can get your bibs laser cut by the thousands. This saves you time, money and allows you to become more efficient.

8. In this diagram you can clearly see one half of the lure mould and the wire insert positioned over the nails. The wire insert runs through a 6mm slot in the bib for added strength. With this method, the only way that you will lose a fish is if your line breaks.

9. With every thing in place, put the two halves of the mould together firmly held with rubber bands and mix the three vital ingredients to create the polyurethane plastic. Work quickly, as you have about 2 minutes to mix and pour the lure. The ingredients are safe and non toxic, so there are no safety hazards with this process. When the lure material is poured, the polyurethane will mould through the bib slot and wire, making it in-destructible. The lure, bib and eyelets are made in one very efficient process.

10. After about 6 - 10 minutes the lure has set, but not fully hardened, so be careful. Remove the lure from the mould and move it to one side and allow to cure, while you set the mould up and pour another lure. While this lure is getting ready for de-mould you can clean the first lure up in seconds.

11. After the lure is taken out of the mould, the puring sprue can be easily trimmed and mould line can be easily cleaned off, using a stanley or craft knife. Be careful and do not rush this.

12. Give the lure a quick rub with 400 grit abrasive paper. Before painting, clean the surface with automotive wax and grease remover to clean the surface of the lure. This will remove all silicone residues so the paint will stick to it.

13. Painting lures is definitely an art. Masks for applying stripes, bars and large spots can be cut in thin plastic films, cardboard, plastic bottles and even aluminium cans. Scale patterns are generally sprayed through different patterns of curtain and lace materials. For professional results, use an air brush and automotive paints. The best quality finish is always going to be by use of an air brush. Airbrushes can require 20 to 30 psi pressure for general use. Spray paints are also suitable for painting the lures, when first starting out. Finish the lure in a two pack clear for a tough durable finish. Now you are a lure manufacturer. The lure moulding kit will allow me to make approx 100 of these 7cm lures shown. 

Click Here to 'Buy a Lure Moulding Kit'. Many commercial lure makers are using this system to manufacture their lures. Once you learn from the easy steps in the kit you will be belting out lures like you have never dreamed possible. If you are not satisfied with the lure making kit within 30 days, send the lure kit back to Luresonline with a message stating your problem, and your money will be refunded in full. That's how confident we are that you will love making your own lures with this kit. Click Here to place an order from our secure server.