There are three methods used to make lures out of timber. They are:

• Making the lure in two halves of timber moulding, with a piece of sheet metal in the middle.

• Making the lure in two halves of timber moulding, and wire eyelets that run through the lure body.

• Making from one solid piece of timber. This is more difficult and time consuming.

Construction 

Methods 1 & 2

The contruction methods below describe how to make timber lures in two halves using the (a) sheet metal method and (b) trace wire method. The methods and principles for each are the same.

1. Working with your template (making sure that it has all of the details marked. e.g. bib slot, as this will make sure it is cut in the right spot & width). With a glue stick, stick them onto the timber moulding so that the head of template is touching the next (as seen above). This way you make sure that they will match when they are glued together.

2. Cut out the shape with a coping saw, scroll saw or band saw, depending on what tools you may have access to. Try to make the cuts as smooth as possible to reduce extra work later on when finishing.

Blanks cut to shape

3. Carefully cut the slots for the bib in each half. This is easy with a band saw, but if using hand tools, make sure that the lure halves are held securely in a vice. Be careful not to squash the timber with the jaws of the vice. Use some scap leather or even newspaper for protection.

4. Trial fit the bib, to make sure it fits properly. (P.S. The bib shape should also be planned on paper to match the lure design and a template produced). The bib can be easily cut out using a scroll or band saw and using a disc sander & file for the desired curves). The material being used is 1.5mm lexcen. I have drilled a small slot in each bib for the towing clip and split ring and also two small holes at the end for added glueing strength.

Bibs cut to shape with a slot for the towing clip.

5. (a) Working with the same body template, trace the pattern onto some sheet aluminium, brass or copper - 1/32" or 1/16" gauge. Before cutting out the matching shape, drill out the centre so that your finished lure will still be bouyant. Drill the two holes for the eyelets. Cut out the final shape remembering to cut the bib slot a little wider than normal. (b) If using trace wire for the eyelets, the same shape can be gained by making a simple jig to make it easier to bend the wired in the appropriate shape. The jig is made made by hammering 3 nails into a piece of timber using the template. Make sure that the heads of the nails have been removed.

a) Template for my sheet metal centre (b) Jig for making wire inserts

6. Trial assembly of the pieces to see how they fit together. (a) Make sure that the sheet metal is just a fraction lower or flush with the lure halves. (b) Make sure that each half has a channel for the wire to run through the lure body so that both halves have firm contact with each other.

(a) Sheet metal insert drilled out for buoyancy (b) Gouge to allow for the wire insert

7. Glue two halves together with 24 hour Araldite. Spread the epoxy glue evenly over both halves, making sure there is ample amounts around the channels, as this will fill any gaps and make the wire eyelets stronger. The lure should be clamped with a vice or small g-clamps for 24 hrs. Remember not to squash the lure only firm pressure is needed.

The two lure halves glued and held in a vice

8. Continue to shape the lure with a file, until you get the desired profile. This can be aided by another template when it is viewed from above. This can also be stuck to the lure blanks for guidance. Sand the lure by hand to get out any small blemishes. Glue in the bib with 24hr araldite.

Template used for top-view profile & The new lure profile after shaping.

Testing the bib fit & Glueing in the bibs with 24 hour Araldite

9. Paint with primer or grey auto undercoat (this is good as it fills a lot of mistakes). When it is dry, sand lightly with a fine grade paper for a smooth finish. Paint the lure with a base coat of white, as colours are more brillaint when painted over a white base. Most lures are generally darker on top than on the bottom (countershading). Paint on your lighter base colours first, then paint on the darker sections and stencil patterns. Finally with a brush, paint on the eyes.

Painting base colour on after undercoat & Painting scale patterns using mosquito netting

The two finished lures.

10. To provide a durable waterproof skin, final finishing with two part polyurethane or automotive thinners based clears. Then using split ring pliers, fit the split rings to the trebles and then to the eyelets. With these lures I have used a towing clip and a split ring on each bib. Another method is to drill two holes for a snap clip for the towing point.

11. Go and show you mates and impress them with your talents. Then put it to the test, as there is nothing more rewarding than catching a fish on one of your own lures. You will often catch more fish, because you are not afraid to cast around snags, as compared to a $15 - $20 lure.

Construction Method 2 - Solid Timber.

This method is more time consuming than the method described above. Simple lure shapes can be created easily. In the following procedure I have used power tools instead of hand tools. The general principles are the same as above.

1. When making lures out of solid timber, it is easier to use timbers that are easy to carve. For example Cedar, White Beech and Jellutong. Using your template, stick it on the side of the lure blank, as a guide for cutting. Then cut the slot for the bib, as this is easier now than later. Trial fit the bib using the same procedures already discussed.

2. Cut the side profile out using a scroll or band saw.

3. Then shape the lure to the required shape using a drum sander in a pedestal drill or lathe. This can be aided by another template when it is viewed from above. This can also be stuck to the lure blanks for guidance.This way you have complete control over what shaping needs to be done, but keep it symmetrical.

4. Once you have achieved the desired lure shape, give it a final sanding with fine abrasive paper for a smooth finish.

5. Drill 1.5mm holes where the eyelets are going. Make two seperate eyelets by using the same jig, but twisting the wire around one of the nails. Fill the holes with 24 hr Araldite. Then screw each eyelet into the pre-drilled holes.

6. Glue the bib in place with 24 hr Araldite. Where the bib slides into the body, drill a couple of 1.5mm holes through the bib for extra holding strength. If you want further strength then it can be pinned.